Many
flower fragrances are used in perfumery. The soil,
climate and variety of each flower influence its
scent enormously. In fact, the raw materials used
to make perfume are found all over. Fields of
flowers and aromatic plants are found in the Mediterranean.
Sandalwood and vetivert come from India. Madagascar
produces the delicate ylang-ylang flower. Oakmoss
from Yugoslavia and roses from Bulgaria also contribute
to the array of materials used in the manufacture
of fragrance.
The essential oil in plants, which give them their
particular aromas, are found in flowers, leaves,
fruit, bark, roots, gums and resins, and seeds
all over the world. The costliest and finest of
perfume oils, called the "absolute,"
are obtained from certain flowers. The natural
oils of the rose, jasmine, and orange flower are
the most important. It is also important to note
that every superior grade perfume contains a certain
percentage of one or more of these flower oils,
which impart to the fragrance a smoothness that
is unobtainable with any other ingredient.
Roses
One
of the most valuable elements of a fine perfume
is provided by the rose, known as the "queen
of flowers". Rose perfumes were very popular
with the Romans and the Greeks. Roses are gathered
at night since they are at their most fragrant
before sunrise. The two main species of roses
used in perfume are the Rosa centifolia, found
in the South of France, and the rosa damascena
(Damask Rose) located primarily in Arab countries.
The damask rose is most widely grown for perfumery.
Roses are found in 75% of all perfumes.
Jasmine
Jasmine, another "absolute," or pure
essence, gives a perfume a well-rounded, finished
quality. Jasmine flowers are harvested when their
scent is at its peak just before dawn. The flowers
must be processed immediately before their freshness
fades. The jasmine must also be placed in special
baskets to prevent the flowers from bruising,
and unbalancing the flower's natural bouquet.
Eight thousand jasmine flowers yield 1/25 oz of
absolute. Jasmine and synthetic versions of jasmine
are used in 83% of all women's perfumes
Violets
Violets have been used in perfumes throughout
the ages. They used violet in both perfumes and
medicines. It has been used for cures from headaches
to cures for cancer. There are two varieties of
violets most commonly used in perfumes, the Victoria
Violet and the Parma Violet. Violets only produce
a scant amount of essential oils, and are rarely
used today. A synthetic replacement for violet
is most commonly used, along with other essential
oils resembling the violet.
Orange
flower
The orange flower is the traditional flower of brides
all over the world. The bitter orange is one of the
most versatile trees producing the essential oils for
this scent. Its blossoms provide orange flower absolute.
Orange flower oil or "neroli" was named after
the Italian Princess of Neroli. She began the fashion
of using the oil for scented gloves. The absolute is
somewhat scarce, but Neroli oil is plentiful and widely
used, especially in finer citrus colognes. Oil of "petit
grain" is obtained by distillation from the leaves
and twigs. Orange flowers are grown in the south of
France, Spain, Italy and North Africa.
Orange
oil Orange
oil is obtained from the peel of the fruit of the orange
tree. Most orange oil comes from Italy, Spain and the
United States. It is used in citrus-type colognes and
other fragrances. One of the most important citrus oils
for toilet water and colognes is lemon oil. When hand-pressed,
the oil has a fresh fruit note. Most lemon oil comes
from Italy and the United States. Bergamot oil is pressed
from the fruit of the bergamot tree, grown in Calabria,
Southern Italy. This oil is used in colognes with a
citrus note, in chypre, and in other types of fragrances.
Ylang-ylang
Ylang-ylang is widely used for fine fragrance.
This flower is found throughout South-East Asia.
The ylang-ylang is not picked until the buds have
been open for two to three weeks. After they have
been gathered, they must be processed quickly.
This oil is commonly used, but synthetic versions,
and cananga oil is often substituted in less expensive
perfumes.
Bark
and roots are also of great value to the perfumer. The
oil of the cinnamon tree has a sweet, spicy note. Vetiver,
a grass whose essential oil comes from the root of the
plant, is a good fixative used in a large number of
fragrances. It is found in Asia, the West Indies, and
in Central and South America. Costus oil, an excellent
fixative grown in the Himalayan Highlands, can be overpowering
even in small concentrations.
Resins
Resins are the gummy substances that come from the barks
of trees. Lichen, usually found around oak trees, exudes
a resinous substance called oakmoss. Its aroma is unique,
giving an earthy note to perfume essential to chypre
fragrances and their derivatives. It is found in Yugoslavia,
Italy, and the Central European countries. Frankincense
is a well-known resin. It is still used in religious
rituals, as a medicine, and as a purifying perfume.
Woods
Sandalwood has long been considered a sacred perfume,
wed in the religious rites of ancient India and
by Chinese Buddhists. Having an easily recognizable
scent and valued as a fixative, the oil finds
wide application in perfumery. Cedarwood oil gives
a woody undertone, and is also valued as a fixative.
It comes from cedar trees that grow in Morocco,
Lebanon and East Africa. Moroccan oil is said
to be the best.